This small traditional restaurant enjoys a fantastic absolute waterfront location here in the village of Kaleköy – accessible only by water.
It is owned by a family we’ve known for over 30 years and we’ve watched Ishmael and Hasibe’s children – from new-born – grow up to run the business and continue the legendary tradition of Turkish hospitality in this enchanting little pocket of the world.
The name means ‘three mouths’, referring to the three entrances to the bay from seaward. This village lies on the most perfectly protected safe anchorage – a real ‘hurricane hole’ – in a landscape littered with 2500 year old Lycian tombs.
Tiny as it is (pop.400), there seems to be something here for everyone – several restaurants, a well-stocked supermarket, a typical Turkish barber, a sophisticated antique shop, a carpet shop, as well as freshly made gözleme. This is where we first came across the process of making carob syrup. We have been drizzling it over our yoghurt and fruit ever since.
Translating as ‘Castle Village’, this motley collection of dwellings largely grafted onto the original pre-Christian structures, is dominated by the mediaeval castle on top of the hill. Within its walls is what is reputed to be the world’s smallest amphitheatre, carved in the bedrock.
We like to wander up to the castle, normally through a gaggle of kids trying to sell you hand-made scarves. The views from the top over the surrounding archipelago are well worth the trek.
On the island opposite Kaleköy are extensive remains of ancient settlements, some now submerged due to earth movements probably in the 2nd century AD. Those below water are Lycian, those above, Byzantine.
We used to be able to snorkel along this shoreline to look at the ancient harbour walls and installations but, sadly, the Ministry of Ancient Monuments has now forbidden this, for fear of pillaging.
This is a ruined ancient city in a deserted bay just west of Kekova, virtually inaccessible by any way other than water.
One of the things we love about our sailing life is that we can get to places like these, not accessible by road. Here we are, picnicking among the ruins, having just picked wild sage to make tea.
On the isolated Greek island of Kastellorizo, this charming taverna on the water’s edge could not be more typically Greek, with its blue tables and white cloths under the flamboyant bougainvillea.
This taverna is a family affair and every time we visit, they know to make me my favourite — barbecued octopus… and I have to tell you, it’s the best I’ve ever had – anywhere!